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Clothing & Materials

Conscious
Clothing

Clothing is the thing we wear longest and question least, natural fiber clothing included. It sits against the skin all day, goes through the wash every week, and outlives most of our good intentions about it.

This page is about the natural fibres: linen, cotton, wool, silk, hemp. What they are, how to tell the real ones from the ones wearing their name, and which of the clothes people actually buy we would pick.

The rest of the wardrobe, polyester tees and stretch jeans included, is scored on the same ruler on Everyday Clothing.

Buy from the shelf ↓

Undyed linen dresses, shirts and an apron in oatmeal, sand and white hang on wooden hangers from a pale rail.
Your clothes have a label. Most of them are hoping you won’t read it.

We went looking for natural fibre on Amazon USA, using Amazon’s own filters. We filtered women’s clothing by “Linen”, sorted by best sellers, and read the fabric line on every one of the top twelve.

One was 100% linen. Three were linen blended with cotton or TENCEL. Two just said “Linen”, with no percentage. And three, sold under the linen filter, contained no linen at all: they were 100% polyester.

Under “Silk”, none of the top ten contained silk. Under “Cashmere”, one of the top ten contained any, at 5%. Under a search for merino, the best sellers were socks, and not one was pure wool.

Nobody is lying, exactly. The filter is a tag, and the tag is a hope. But it means the word on the screen and the fibre on your skin have quietly parted ways, and the only place they still meet is the small print on the fabric line. So that is where we read, and that is what this page is built on.

The Materials

What clothes are actually made of

Every fibre comes from one of three places: a plant or an animal, a plant dissolved and rebuilt, or oil. We score two things from that. Frequency asks how far the fibre travelled from where it grew. Gaia asks where it goes when you are done with it. Here is how the common ones read.

Scroll table sideways →

FibreWhere it comes from, and what it meansFrequency ceilingGaia ceiling
Linen, hempBast fibre from the stem of the flax or hemp plant. Strong, breathable, and it softens with every wash. Flax usually needs few or no pesticides, according to the brands that grow it; we look for a certificate rather than take that on trust.100100
Organic cottonCotton grown to an organic standard. It only counts on Shake with a licence number or another certificate number we can look up.100100
Conventional cottonThe same plant, grown with synthetic pesticides and often heavy irrigation. In the garment it is still a whole plant fibre; the cost was paid at the farm, so it is charged on Animals and Gaia, not Frequency.100100less the farm rows
Wool, merino, silk, alpacaAnimal fibres. Warm, breathable, and they break down readily in seawater, where plastic fibres do not.100100
Lyocell / TENCELWood pulp dissolved in a solvent that is mostly recovered, then spun. Plant-based, but chemically made.85100
, rayon, modal, bamboo viscosePlant cellulose dissolved in chemicals including carbon disulfide and reformed as thread. It begins as a plant and ends as a processed fibre, which is why bamboo made this way must be labelled “rayon made from bamboo” in the US.70100
Natural fibre with a little elastaneStretch. Small amounts lower both ceilings, step by step, by how much is in the fabric (see the table further down).95 to 7095 to 70
Polyester, nylon, acrylic, fleece, recycled polyesterPlastic, from oil. Sheds in every wash and does not break down afterwards. Recycled polyester is still polyester; it earns no credit on Shake.5540

We read the main fabric, the one covering your body. Thread, zips, buttons and labels under 5% of the garment do not count against it, with one exception: metal parts that sit against your skin (see below). Shake does not score fabric in Hertz: those figures were never peer-reviewed, and the readings were reportedly taken in a unit of length.

Shopper cheat sheet · Where your clothes go

Cotton goes home. Polyester never leaves.

Every wash sheds tiny fibres into the drain. Researchers put them in wastewater, lake water and seawater and waited forty days. Here is how much of each one was gone.

CottonPlant fibre
89%
77%
49%
RayonPlant cellulose, chemically made
87%
73%
46%
Cotton + polyesterThe everyday blend
45%
33%
14%
PolyesterPlastic, from oil
5%
0%
4%

A blend breaks down at about half the rate of cotton, because the cotton half goes home and the plastic half stays behind.

0

Polyester, nylon and polypropylene
showed virtually no breakdown in seawater, where wool and viscose broke down readily.

<1%

of clothing material
is recycled into new clothing. “Recycled” rarely means “recycled again.”

60%

of clothing in Europe
is synthetic fibre. Most of a wardrobe is quietly made of plastic.

Natural fibres

Linen, cotton, hemp, wool, silk: microbes recognise them and take them back.

Blends

The natural part leaves; the plastic part stays, as smaller and smaller pieces.

Plastic fibres

Polyester, nylon, acrylic, elastane, fleece. Recycled polyester too: it is still polyester.

How much plastic, how high the ceiling

Our Gaia score for a garment can go no higher than this, read off the main fabric on the label.

Synthetic in the fabricGaia ceiling
0% · pure natural fibre100
1–5%95
6–10%90
11–20%80
21–49%70
50% or more · recycled polyester · not disclosed40

How Shake scores it

The more plastic in the fabric, the lower its Gaia score. Pure plastic tops out at 40.

We read the body fabric on the label. Natural fibre keeps its full score; every share of synthetic lowers the ceiling; plastic-dominant garments can never be a Shake Pick.

Sources: Zambrano MC, Pawlak JJ, Daystar J, Ankeny M, Cheng JJ, Venditti RA, Microfibers generated from the laundering of cotton, rayon and polyester based fabrics and their aquatic biodegradation, Marine Pollution Bulletin 2019 (North Carolina State University with Cotton Incorporated, which funded it; 40-day figures as reported by Cotton Incorporated); Hassan MM, Collie S, Brorens P, Fowler I, Marine biodegradation behavior of wool and other textile fibers, Water, Air, & Soil Pollution 2024 (funded by Australian Wool Innovation); Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A New Textiles Economy (2017); European Environment Agency, Plastic in textiles: towards a circular economy for synthetic textiles in Europe.

Awareness

What to be mindful of

Six things worth knowing before the next thing you buy. Some are well established, one is a caution for a defined group of people, and we have tried to tell you which is which.

01

“Linen” on the screen, polyester in the fabric

A shop filter is a tag a seller chooses, not a test anyone runs. On Amazon USA, three of the twelve best-selling dresses under the “Linen” filter were 100% polyester, and none of the ten best sellers under “Silk” contained silk. Most were polyester “satin”, which is a weave, not a fibre.

The fabric line is the one place a listing has to commit. Read it before the photo.

Source: Shake’s reading of Amazon USA women’s clothing best sellers, Material filters Linen, Cotton, Silk and Cashmere, and a merino search

02

A certificate in words is a claim, not a certificate

“OEKO-TEX certified” with no number cannot be checked by anyone, and OEKO-TEX itself treats a certification mentioned in text without its certificate number or institute as a misuse of its label.

It may well be true. But a number is the difference between a promise and something you can look up in sixty seconds, for free.

Source: OEKO-TEX Labelling Guide; OEKO-TEX certificate and label misuse notice (listed categories)

03

The dye covers the whole garment

The fibre is only half the story; the colour is on every thread of it. Some can release aromatic amines that the EU restricts in clothing worn against the skin, above 30 mg per kilogram. Most garments tested by regulators pass. Some do not: one Swiss survey found suspected-mutagenic amines above that limit in a quarter of its samples.

Dye chemistry is almost never published, so where no certificate we can check covers the dyed fabric, we score the worst case and say so.

Source: REACH Annex XVII, entry 43 and Appendix 8 (ECHA); Australian Competition and Consumer Commission surveys, 2013 and 2015; Journal of Consumer Protection and Food Safety, 2019 · Shake repository, azo dyes, Tier 1

04

Conventional cotton pays its bill at the farm

Cotton grown conventionally accounts for about 4% of the world’s pesticide use and about 10.5% of its insecticide use, by the cotton industry’s own advisory body’s figures. That is less than the 16% often quoted, and still a lot for one crop.

None of that is left in your shirt as far as anyone has shown; the harm is in the field and the water. So we charge it on Animals and Gaia, and lift it the moment a brand shows us an organic certificate number.

Source: International Cotton Advisory Committee data, via Shake repository, conventional cotton pesticide use and irrigation water use (both Tier 2)

05

The small parts that touch your skin

Buttons, rivets, snaps and zips are a sliver of a garment, so we ignore them, unless they are metal and sit on your skin. Nickel is the most common contact allergen in Europe: about one adult in seven is sensitised, which is why the EU caps how much nickel a jeans button or zip may release.

Most people never react. For the ones who do, a named nickel-free metal, or a corozo or wooden button, is a quiet kindness.

Source: REACH Annex XVII, entry 27; EN 1811:2023; EDEN Fragrance Study, Contact Dermatitis (age-standardised nickel sensitisation 14.5% across five European countries) · Shake repository, nickel release from garment metal parts, Tier 2

06

Plastic fibre does not go home

In a seawater test, wool and viscose broke down readily and polyester, nylon and polypropylene barely broke down at all. In another, laundry fibres from a polyester t-shirt broke down 0% in fresh water in forty days, against 77% for cotton.

And recycling is not the escape hatch it sounds like: less than 1% of the material used to make clothing is recycled into new clothing.

Source: Hassan et al., Water, Air, & Soil Pollution 2024; Zambrano et al., Marine Pollution Bulletin 2019; Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A New Textiles Economy (2017)

Conscious Alternatives

What to look for instead

Six things you can check yourself, on a listing or a swing tag, without taking anybody’s word for anything.

01

A fibre with a number beside it

“100% linen”, or a blend of natural fibres with both percentages, adding up to 100. “Linen” on its own is a mood, not a composition.

Standard: ShakeUp SOP v1.9, Part 4C

02

An OEKO-TEX number you can look up

Type it into the free OEKO-TEX Label Check. You want “valid”, product class I or II for anything against the skin, and a scope that names the finished, dyed fabric.

Standard: OEKO-TEX Label Check · Shake ruling, 20 October 2026

03

GOTS with its licence number

A real GOTS label carries a grade (“organic” at 95% or more, “made with X% organic” from 70%), the certifier’s name and a licence number. Missing the number, it is a sentence.

Standard: GOTS Licensing and Labelling Guide, via Oregon Tilth

04

Undyed, or dyed under a certificate

The oatmeal of undyed linen is the simplest answer to the dye question. Otherwise, look for a certificate that covers the dyed fabric, not just the yarn.

Standard: Shake repository, azo dyes; OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100

05

Buttons that are not metal, or a metal that is named

Corozo, wood, coconut, shell, fabric-covered: all fine. A metal button or rivet is fine too, if the brand names it as nickel-free or tests it to EN 1811.

Standard: REACH Annex XVII, entry 27 · Shake repository, nickel release

06

“Plant-based” read twice

TENCEL, modal and bamboo viscose start as wood or grass and are dissolved and rebuilt in a factory. Better than plastic on where they end up; further from the plant than linen on how they were made.

Standard: ShakeUp SOP v1.9, Parts 4C and 6.1 · US FTC textile labelling

Shopper cheat sheet · 1 of 2

OEKO-TEX, decoded in sixty seconds

It is the most common safety label in clothing, and the most commonly half-shown. A logo is a promise. A number is proof. Here is how to tell the difference before it touches your skin.

What it actually is

Not one lab, but an association of independent testing institutes. STANDARD 100 tests the finished textile for harmful substances left in it: restricted dyes, PFAS, formaldehyde and more.

It says what is in the fabric. It says nothing about how the fibre was farmed, how much water it used, or who sewed it.

All three should be there. Missing number? Treat it as a claim.

Check any label in three steps (free, no sign-up)

1
Find the number
On the swing tag, the care label or the product page. Numbers are case-sensitive.
2
Enter it in the Label Check
oeko-tex.com/label-check
3
Read three lines
Is it valid? Which product class? What exactly is covered: the fabric, or the whole garment?

The four product classes

Lower class number, stricter limits. For clothing you wear all day, look for Class I or II.

I

Babies and toddlers
The strictest limits

II

Skin contact
Shirts, dresses, underwear, bedding

III

No skin contact
Jackets, coat fillings

IV

Decoration
Curtains, upholstery

Good signs

  • Number and institute shown together
  • Label Check says “valid”
  • Class I or II for clothes
  • Scope names the finished, dyed fabric

Red flags

  • “OEKO-TEX certified” in words, with no number
  • A logo with no number or institute
  • Certificate expired (they last one year)
  • Number covers only one part, like the thread

Claiming it falsely is not a grey area: OEKO-TEX is a protected trademark, misuse is investigated, and certificates can be withdrawn.

How Shake uses it

If a brand shows us a number, we look it up. If it shows us a logo, we look for the number.

A checked certificate covering the dyed fabric answers our dye question. A logo on its own answers nothing, and the score says so. Telling us is free, and the number moves that week.

Sources: OEKO-TEX Labelling Guide (certificate number; testing institutes; trademark and claims usage); OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 Factsheet (four product classes; one-year validity); Hohenstein, How to Read OEKO-TEX Certificates and Check Their Validity; OEKO-TEX Label Check, oeko-tex.com/en/label-check.

Shopper cheat sheet · 2 of 2

GOTS, or how to tell organic from “organic-ish”

The Global Organic Textile Standard follows the fibre from the field to the finished garment: the farming, the dyehouse, the factory floor. It is the closest thing clothing has to a full biography, if the label lets you read it.

How much of it is actually organic?

There is no “100% organic” grade in GOTS. If a GOTS label says it, something is off.

A real GOTS label carries four things

1

The GOTS logo

2

The grade
“organic” or “made with X% organic”

3

The certifier
The body that audited it

4

A licence number
The one you can check

What GOTS keeps out of the garment

Dyes
Azo dyes that release cancer-linked amines are prohibited; allergenic disperse dyes are restricted.
Forever chemicals
PFAS, including PTFE, are prohibited.
The hidden helpers
Alkylphenol ethoxylates, organotins, chlorophenols, phthalates, flame retardants and halogenated solvents, all on its restricted list.
The trims
Buttons, zips and other accessories must meet residue limits too.
The people
Social criteria cover every certified facility, not just the farm.
The paper trail
Every hand-off between certified companies needs a transaction certificate.

GOTS and OEKO-TEX are not rivals

GOTS asks
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 asks
How was it grown and made?
What is left in the finished fabric?
Is the fibre organic?
Says nothing about organic
Covers farm, mill, dyehouse and factory
Covers the textile that was tested
Checked by licence number
Checked by certificate number

Best of both: a GOTS licence for how it was made, and a STANDARD 100 certificate for what remains in it.

Good signs

  • Grade, certifier and licence number on the label
  • A percentage when it is “made with”
  • The brand names its certified suppliers

Red flags

  • “GOTS certified” with no licence number
  • “100% organic” on a GOTS label
  • “Organic cotton” with no grade or percentage

How Shake uses it

Organic counts when we can read the number, not the adjective.

A GOTS licence number with its certifier removes our conventional-cotton charges and answers our dye question. “Certified organic” without a number is a sentence, not a certificate.

Sources: GOTS Version 7.0 and its changelog (prohibited azo dyes, PFAS including PTFE, sensitising disperse dyes); GOTS fact sheet, Control of Chemicals in GOTS Goods (restricted substance groups; accessories); Oregon Tilth, Requirements for GOTS Labels and Transaction Certificates (label grades, licence number); GOTS seminar, Using the GOTS Logo on and off product.

Behind the scoring

We score the fabric that touches you, not the thread that holds it together.

A garment is mostly one fabric and a handful of small parts. So we read the main fabric first and ignore anything under 5% of the garment, like thread, labels and most buttons, unless it is metal against your skin.

Then two ceilings. Frequency, set by how far the fibre travelled from the plant. And, new this week, Gaia, set by how much plastic is in the fabric, because plastic fibre is shown not to break down. A dress with a little elastane can still score well. A dress made of polyester cannot reach the top, and cannot be a Shake Pick.

Every certificate number a brand publishes, we now look up ourselves, for free, on the issuer’s own register.

How we score

The Shelf, Scored

Natural fiber clothing: what sells, and what we would pick

These are the natural-fibre clothes Amazon USA shoppers buy most, and four brands we went looking for. Every one is 100% natural fibre or a blend of natural fibres. Every one scores Aligned or better, which makes every one a Shake Pick.

Read People first (open Read more on any row). It sits at 55 everywhere except MagicLinen, and not because of anything we found in the fabric. It is because no other brand here publishes its dye chemistry or a certificate we can check that covers the dyed fabric. Linen scores higher than cotton for one reason: without an organic certificate number, cotton carries what it cost at the farm.

Shake Picks

The best-scoring piece of each kind on this page. Every product that scores Worth a Pause or better carries the Shake Pick badge in the list below. Plastic-dominant clothing never does.

Linen

MagicLinen BORACAY Dress

100.00%Deeply Aligned

100% linen, and the only dye on this page we could check.

See where to buy

Cotton

Puff-Sleeve Striped Babydoll Dress

81.25%Aligned

100% cotton, and the best-selling pure-cotton dress we read.

See where to buy

Men

COOFANDY Cotton Linen Trousers

81.25%Aligned

80% cotton, 20% linen; the top natural-fibre seller in men’s linen.

See where to buy

Already own something you love? Check it in ShakeUP and see which Shake Picks score higher.

Score what you use

The most sold

Natural-fibre clothing from Amazon USA best sellers: women’s clothing under Amazon’s “Linen” and “Cotton” material filters, and a men’s linen-shirt search, grouped by fibre. Within each group the order is Amazon sales rank, not our score. We read the fabric line on every listing and kept only natural fibre; the four brands we scored ourselves sit at the end of their group.

ProductShake scoreBand
Linen
Rainday Linen Maxi DressAmazon USA women’s linen #3 · 70% linen, 30% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
100% Linen Slip DressAmazon USA women’s linen #10 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
100% Linen Spaghetti-Strap DressAmazon USA women’s linen #15 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
100% Linen Button-Down Midi DressAmazon USA women’s linen #16 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Amazhiyu Pure Linen Button-Down DressAmazon USA women’s linen #34 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Amazhiyu Linen Mini Shirt DressAmazon USA women’s linen #36 · body fabric 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Amazhiyu Linen Bodycon DressAmazon USA women’s linen #37 · body fabric 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
DKNY Lightweight Linen Maxi DressAmazon USA women’s linen #45 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
The Drop Linen DressAmazon USA women’s linen #47 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
100% Linen V-Neck Tie-Front DressAmazon USA women’s linen #48 · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Pure linen, the best fibre on our scale. People sits at 55 because the listing publishes no dye chemistry and no certificate covering the dyed fabric. Publish one we can look up and it rises.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
MagicLinen Long Linen Dress BORACAYNot in the Amazon lists we read · featured below · 100% linen, OEKO-TEX certificate checked
Read more
People100Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

The only garment on this page whose dye we could check: its OEKO-TEX certificate is valid, rated for skin contact, and covers the bleached, dyed and finished linen. Shake is a MagicLinen affiliate.

100.00%Shake PickDeeply AlignedSee where to buy
Son de Flor Classic Peter Pan Collar Linen DressNot in the Amazon lists we read · 100% linen · the brand’s founding dress, the one we scored
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Son de Flor says its materials are OEKO-TEX certified but publishes no number we could look up. Publish it and this could score 100%. We scored the Classic dress rather than the Classic skirt, whose stretch waistband would take it to 87.50%.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedNo buy button: no affiliate link
Neu Nomads Isla Kaftan (Linen)Not in the Amazon lists we read · 100% linen
Read more
People55Animals100Gaia100Frequency100

Neu Nomads says its dyes are OEKO-TEX certified and AZO-free, with no number to check. On its own sustainability page, the dyehouse it describes is the one for its TENCEL satin, not its linen.

88.75%Shake PickAlignedNo buy button: no affiliate link
Cotton and cotton-linen
CHARTOU Cotton Linen Maxi DressAmazon USA women’s linen #6 · 80% cotton, 20% linen
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Puff-Sleeve Striped Babydoll DressAmazon USA women’s cotton #6 · 100% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
RIHOAS Gingham Smocked Midi DressAmazon USA women’s cotton #7 · 100% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
chouyatou Cotton Sun DressAmazon USA women’s linen #12 · 100% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Zeagoo Cotton Summer DressAmazon USA women’s linen #17 · 100% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Petal & Pup Cassandra Ruffle Mini DressAmazon USA women’s linen #27 · 70% cotton, 30% linen
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Minibee Cotton Linen Midi DressAmazon USA women’s linen #28 · 55% cotton, 45% linen
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
IN’VOLAND Plus Size Cotton DressAmazon USA women’s linen #31 · 100% cotton
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
Beaumont Organic Sierra-Sue Organic Cotton TopNot in the Amazon lists we read · 100% organic cotton jersey, elasticated collar and cuffs
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency95

Beaumont names every factory that touched this top, which almost nobody does, and says it is GOTS certified. Without the GOTS licence number we score the cotton as conventional, and the undisclosed elastic in the collar and cuffs as 1–5% elastane. Publish the licence number and it rises to 90.00%.

80.00%Shake PickAlignedNo buy button: no affiliate link
Men
COOFANDY Cotton Linen TrousersAmazon USA men’s linen shirts search #2 · 80% cotton, 20% linen
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy
J.VER Men’s Linen ShirtAmazon USA men’s linen shirts search #6 · 70% cotton, 30% linen
Read more
People55Animals90Gaia80Frequency100

No organic certificate number is published, so the cotton carries our two conventional-cotton rows: pesticide use in growing (10 off Animals and Gaia) and irrigation water (10 off Gaia). A GOTS licence number with its certifier returns it to 88.75%.

81.25%Shake PickAlignedSee where to buy

For brands

Make something that belongs on this shelf?

Apply to be scored. It is free, and we score from what you publish: applying, or working with us, never changes a score.

Apply to be scored How it works

Sold as natural, isn’t

Everything here turned up under Amazon’s own natural-fibre filters. We have not scored it on this page, because it is not natural fibre. The polyester pieces go to Everyday Clothing, where they are scored on the same ruler.

Filed under Silk

0 of 10

of the best sellers contained silk. Nine were polyester or polyester and spandex, sold as “satin”; one was “milk silk” with 60% spandex.

Filed under Linen

3 of 12

of the best sellers were 100% polyester, and a fourth was a polyester-cotton dress with a polyester jacket. Another was 70% linen, 30% polyester.

Filed under Cashmere

1 of 10

contained any cashmere, at 5%, alongside nylon, viscose and wool. The rest were polyester, viscose blends or plain cotton.

Searched as merino

0 of 10

were pure wool. All ten were socks, with wool from 2.5% to 70% and the rest mostly polyester and spandex.

Says only “Linen”

2

of the top three linen best sellers give no percentage. It may be all linen. The listing does not say, so we cannot.

Shy Velvet Linen Maxi Dress · Senllen Linen Maxi Dress

Plant-based, chemically made

70%

TENCEL in a best-selling “linen” mini dress, with 30% linen. TENCEL starts as wood and is dissolved and rebuilt: better than plastic, but not a natural fibre.

VIUTIL Linen Mini Dress

Three things this table does not say

It does not say cotton is a bad choice. A 100% cotton dress scores 81.25%, comfortably Aligned. It scores below linen only because the cotton carries what conventional farming cost, and one certificate number would close the gap.

It does not say the dyes are harmful. We do not know what dyes these brands use, and that is the point. Where nobody can check, we score the worst case a dye has been shown to be, and we say so rather than assume the best.

It does not say these are the only good clothes on Amazon. They are the natural-fibre ones that sell most, under the filters we read. Something lovely may sit at number 49. Send it to us through ShakeUP and we will read it.

What would move any of these numbers

A certificate number we can look up that covers the dyed fabric. A GOTS licence number for the cotton. A percentage beside the word “Linen”. Each one is free to publish, and each one moves the score the week it appears.

Scored under the ShakeUp Standard Operating Manual v1.9 with Shake’s textile rulings of 16 to 20 October 2026. Sales ranks from Amazon USA Best Sellers sorting, fabric lines as published on each listing at the time of reading. Sources for every row: Shake repository (azo dyes; conventional cotton, two rows; nickel release) · OEKO-TEX Label Check · the brands’ own published materials.

We earn from Amazon on the links in this table, not from the brands. Amazon pays the same commission whether a product scores 40 percent or 95 percent, and none of these brands had any part in the number beside its name. The exception is MagicLinen, which pays us through Impact, disclosed on its card. Son de Flor, Neu Nomads and Beaumont Organic have no relationship with Shake, so they carry no buy button and no brand photography.

Also worth knowing

Brands not yet scored

They carry no score because we have not assessed them yet, not because of anything they have or have not done.

Organic Basics

Basics · Denmark

A basics label that describes its range as built on certified organic and recycled fibres. The questions we will ask: which pieces are natural fibre only, and what the certificate numbers are.

Armedangels

Everyday clothing · Germany

A label that describes itself as working in GOTS-certified organic cotton and publishing its suppliers. The questions we will ask: the licence number, and how much of each piece is synthetic.

Asket

Permanent wardrobe · Sweden

A label that describes publishing where each garment’s materials come from. The questions we will ask: fibre by component, and dye certificates.

Each description is drawn from the company’s own published material. Being listed here is not an endorsement.

Material Awareness

The four words worth learning

Learn these four and you can read any clothing listing on the internet, including the ones hoping you won’t.

Fabric type

The one line on a listing that has to commit. A material filter, a product title and a photograph can all say “linen”. The fabric line tells you whether it is.

Label Check

OEKO-TEX’s free public register. Type in a certificate number and it tells you whether it is valid, which product class it covers, and exactly what was certified.

Licence number

The GOTS equivalent. Every genuine GOTS label carries one, beside the grade and the name of the certifier. No number, no way to check.

Body fabric

The main fabric of a garment, the one covering you. It is what we score. Thread, labels and most buttons are under 5% of a garment and do not count against it.

You don’t need a new wardrobe. You need to read the one line on the label.

Nothing on this page asks you to throw anything away. The greenest dress is still the one already in your cupboard.

What it asks is smaller: the next time you buy, read the fabric line before the photograph. Look for a fibre with a number beside it, and a certificate with a number you can check.

Linen has been worn for thousands of years without a marketing department. It can manage a few more.

Words on this page

We would rather explain a word than avoid it. Tap any dotted term above, or read them here.

GOTS
Global Organic Textile Standard. It certifies a textile from the fibre to the finished product, covering organic content, the chemicals allowed in processing and social criteria. A genuine GOTS label carries a grade, the certifier’s name and a licence number.
Viscose (rayon)
A fibre made by dissolving plant cellulose in chemicals and reforming it as thread. It begins as a plant and ends as a heavily processed fibre, which is why viscose made from bamboo must legally be labelled “rayon made from bamboo” in the US.
Microfibre
Very fine fibre shed from fabric as it is worn and washed. From cotton, linen or wool it breaks down; from polyester, nylon or acrylic it is a microplastic and does not.
Azo dyes
A large family of synthetic dyes. A small number can break down into aromatic amines that the EU restricts in textiles worn against the skin. Most azo dyes do not, and the label almost never tells you which kind you have.

The label writes the score. We don’t. Only evidence moves it.

Affiliate disclosure. Shake earns commission on some links across this site. Shake is a MagicLinen affiliate through the Impact network, disclosed again on its card, and earns from Amazon on the Amazon links in the table. Son de Flor, Neu Nomads, Beaumont Organic and the brands not yet scored have no commercial relationship with Shake. A commercial relationship is never an input to a Shake Score.

Not medical advice. Shake describes materials and what is known about them. It does not diagnose, treat or advise on any medical condition. If you react to a fabric or a metal, a clinician is the right person to ask.

On our sources. Every factual claim on this page is attributed where it is made. Scores were reached under the ShakeUp Standard Operating Manual v1.9 and Shake’s textile rulings of 16 to 20 October 2026; the full working for every number is in our Score Ledger.